Well, we’re getting close to the new year, and you may have a big bonus burning a hole in your pocket — thinking of buying a longarm? Here’s some questions you might want to consider.
1. Stand up — or sit down?
One new popular concept in the long-arm world is taking the traditional longarm machine (12-30″ throat depth) and embedding it in a table, so it looks like your “domestic” sewing machine, but has a much, much bigger throat space. This eliminates the need for the 10-14′ frame, which is very attractive to some people. However, as far as I know, no one yet has figured out how to do this with a stitch regulator. (The stitch regulators work with that 10-14′ frame, and when the machine is on a table, there’s nothing for the stitch regulators to work with). You control the stitch length with a combination of a foot pedal and how fast you move the fabric, just like in a domestic machine. Another advantage of a sit-down machine is that it is generally cheaper.
Personally, if you have the space, I would go for the stand-up version. This doesn’t mean you can’t sit while quilting — I just got a hair-stylist stool that works great with my 12′ ABM Innova machine. Frames have the advantage of stitch regulation, easier quilt sandwiching (just roll onto the leader bars), and the possibility of a computer add-on.
2. How much can you spend — and can you spend more?
Budget is a crucial consideration when buying a longarm. Although you can buy longarms fairly cheaply, (about $6,000 is a good place to put a starting point), you may not want to buy at the lower end. For one thing, used longarms at the lower end are very, very difficult to sell used once you decide you want to upgrade. Oh, and you’ll want to upgrade — there’s reasons that the lower-end longarms are cheaper — they’re missing some critical features, like functioning, capable stitch regulators. Think about spending a minimum of $10,000 for a machine — add another $12,000 on top of that if you want to make it a computerized, robotic machine.
If you just panicked and thought that there is no way possible you can pull together that kind of money, there is an alternative — used machines. Sometimes Craigslist will have them for sale, but a reliable way to go is through Long Arm University — they have a listing of good, used, longarm machines that may be a match for you. Getting the machine shipped to your house could be a bear, but it may be worth it at the end.
3. How big of a machine / frame do I get?
Most machines start out with an 18″ throat — this is really too small, and should not be considered, in my opinion. If you are ever planning on doing customer quilts, an 18″ throat is not capable of quilting a 12″ block on point. You’ll have to break it up into two separate passes, which is really annoying. I would avoid an 18″ machine unless you only do quilts for yourself, and you know you’ll never get into that situation.
A new medium length is 22″ — this is actually pretty cool. You can do that 12″ block on point, and it is still small enough that the frame doesn’t swallow a huge space in your quilting room. If you are planning on hand-guiding the machine, this is a good option to consider.
The longer machines, 26″ and longer — are really best for quilters that are planning on using a computerized system with their machine. This gives you the largest quilting space for your computer to work with. I have a 26″ ABM Innova, and it is great having all that throat space with my AutoPilot computer. However, when I hand quilt, it is awkward to stretch over that entire space, and I generally don’t hand-quilt the full 22+” of working space that I get with that machine. So, if you’re looking to computerize your machine, get as long as a throat depth as you can. Otherwise, I think you can save some money by shortening the throat space a bit.
In terms of frame length, 10′ is the shortest you should consider. 10′ frames are the default for those lower-end machines, which should tell you something. You might think a 10′ frame will be sufficient for all your needs — that’s 120″, and who has a quilt larger than that? Well, a 10′ frame doesn’t really give you 10′ of working space — you need to be able to reach the bobbin underneath the machine, and clamp on the backing to the frame on the sides. Subtract about 12″ from any frame length to give you the maximum “workable” space. For a 10′ frame, that’s now 108″, and you may run into a larger quilt than that every once in a vast while.
That’s why most people go with a 12′ frame if possible (how long is your room?). a 12′ frame gives you 132″ of working space, which will cover all of your needs. Some manufacturers will also offer a 14′ frame, but it doesn’t really seems necessary. I haven’t seen a working quilter with a 14′ frame yet.
4. What brand should I get?
I know, at this point, you expect that I’m going to say that ABM Innova is the only way to go! I am a sales rep for the Innova systems, after all. However, to be honest, it ultimately comes down to which machine you feel most comfortable with “driving”. I would stick with the good brand names — Innova, Gammill, APQS, A-1. There are a plethora of new, secondary, machine brands out there. Take a look at the shape of the machines — a number of companies have OEM’d a different machine and are placing it under a different brand name in an attempt to break into the market. Stick with the companies that actually make their machines.
One other thing to consider is the technical support provided. These machines are heavy; you can’t readily take them to a local dealer. (Which is why a local dealer isn’t necessarily a must, although it is a nice thing to have). What you really need is an 800 number that you can call Sunday night when you can’t figure out a problem, and your client’s quilt is due Monday morning. Innova, for example, has a 24/7 help line. When I was first starting out with the machine, I would call it relatively frequently (Mike walked me through the timing process, for example). Now I hardly ever call it, but it’s good to know it’s there. Ask the company you’re going to buy from what their support is.
Find out who “runs” the company. Are you going to be able to talk to someone directly about product issues or upgrade requests? Do you have a direct line into the company — do they care about their customers? This is the equivalent of buying a car, and you want to make sure that this machine will last you a long time.
5. Robot or Not?
Finally, you might be asking if you need a computerized machine. You don’t, really, although if you get one, you can do really complicated, intricate work without spending the years building up hand-eye coordination. The other advantage of computerized machines is that they work while you do something else — program in a panto, and work on piecing that new quilt while the computer stitches for you. You do have to have some computer-savvy to run a computerized machine — I wouldn’t go for this if “windows” means only clear panes of glass to you.
If you do want a computerized machine, start planning this purchase when you buy your longarm. Some companies make you buy the robot along with the base longarm, which can get very expensive. Other companies outsource their computer systems, which I personally don’t like (I like dealing with the same company for both sides of the machine; I think the integration is smoother). There are very, very cheap computerized systems out there — beware! Here, you generally get what you pay for. Shoot me an email or comment if you want to talk about this; I’ve gone through three different brands of computerized systems so far, and have lots of opinions here.
Well, there we go — some initial thoughts to get you started. If you’re interested in an Innova, or have questions on buying longarm machines, feel free to contact me – I’ve been longarm quilting for 5 years now on three different systems, and I think I can help you avoid the mistakes that I made! Good luck, and fruitful quilting!
